10 tips for a stencil that transfers well
Reviewed on October 16, 2026
Almost every failed transfer can be fixed before printing. Run through this list with every design.
Before printing
- Print at 100 %, without “fit to page”, and measure the 10 mm ruler.
- Check the orientation: depending on your paper and workflow you may need to print mirrored; test first.
- Lines of at least 0.3 mm: one-dot lines barely transfer.
- Hollow large blacks and mark them with lines or dots.
- Light screened shading: a 40–55 % density is enough to guide.
- Remove stray specks and leftovers of the paper background.
When transferring
- Handle stencil paper by the edges and store it flat and out of the light.
- Prepare the skin following the instructions of your transfer product’s manufacturer.
- Respect the drying time that product recommends before you start tattooing.
- If you’re unsure about the size, print several copies on one sheet and try them on the area first.
Tools to do it
Copy sheetPlace one or more copies of the stencil on A4, Letter, A5, A3 or a custom sheet, at real size and with a 10 mm ruler to check the scale. With a negative gap, copies overlap for borders and patterns.Use the tool →Fills and outlineTurn the large blacks of a tribal, engraving or blackwork design into a firm outline with light marks inside (lines, cross or dots): the fill stays recognisable and the stencil doesn’t overload with ink.Use the tool →Shading screensTurn greys and gradients into a 1-bit screen a thermal printer can actually print: engraving hatch, crosshatch or wavy lines, dots, stipple, dither or mezzotint, with the density under control.Use the tool →